During Phuket’s tin mining boom 200 years ago, many Chinese migrants came to the island to work in the mines. To keep the workers entertained, every year a Chinese opera troupe was invited to perform.
In 1825, some of the performers in the visiting troupe fell ill. They began to cleanse their bodies by eating a vegetarian diet for nine days and performing rituals in honor of two emperor gods, Kiew Ong Tai Teh and Yok Ong Sone Teh. Their health improved and the workers and local people on Phuket wanted to find out more about how this happened.
One man from Phuket went back to China with the troupe and returned carrying sacred incense smoke and other holy items. When the people heard that he had returned, they went in procession to bring him and his sacred cargo back to the town. This was the origin of the processions that are such a huge part of the festival today.
Ma Song are devotees whom the gods enter during the festival. They manifest supernatural powers and perform self-mutilations in order to shift evil from individuals onto themselves, and to bring the community good luck. Ma Song fall into two categories: those who, having had an intimation of impending doom, want to extend their lives; and people specially chosen by the gods for their moral qualities.
The ma song are seen walking in the processions in a state of enchantment, usually with their cheeks and other body parts pierced. The ma song believe that if they take on these painful acts they will not only improve their lives but those of others in their community. It’s a way to make merit. Others are said to have no choice: the gods possess their bodies whether they want to join the festival or not.
Throughout the festival fireworks and drums are sounded, especially during ceremonies. It is held that the louder they are the better, because the noise drives away evil spirits.
Participants in the fest keep to a strict vegetarian diet to make themselves strong in mind and body; they refrain from all vice, eating animal flesh, and killing animals. The festival thus promotes good hygiene, brightness and inner peace.
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