Monday, 10 August, 2026г.
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Ryukin Goldfish Tank Care & Tank Mates

Ryukin Goldfish Tank Care & Tank MatesУ вашего броузера проблема в совместимости с HTML5
https://amzn.to/2E5Ti6D - Aquarium Ryukin Goldfish Tank Care is so much fun. A main concern with fancy goldfish is food quality and eating from the surface being bad. Get yourself a higher quality food. I use omega one brand. Here is a link: Goldfish Food: https://amzn.to/2E5Ti6D More fish tank talk and questions: Pretty sure this is a death sentence. She still seems happy and swimming normally. I moved her to a hospital tank. Is there anything else I can do? What are the almond leaves for? Whats the point of the water changes? assuming parameters are fine this can only add more stress to her immune system. http://blackmoorgoldfish.org/growth/ This level of dropsy is very advanced that she likely can't recover from the organ failure. If any action should be taken it needs to be hard antibiotics and that's only if it's a bacterial infection which is the most common cause. Sorry I didn't mean to come off too harsh. But those things seem too mild/maybe alternatively preventative, to treat something pretty major. It is pretty clear that it is dropsy, but dropsy itself is not really a sickness, it is more akin to a symptom. Dropsy can be caused by many things (organ failure, bacterial infection, parasites). If you know the cause of dropsy you might be able to treat it. What you can do for now is making sure that the hospital tank has perfect water parameters. You can try epsom salt as well because it relieves the swelling. Kanaplex + metroplex + focus mixed with food, Epsom salt baths daily. Keep up treatment for 7 days. That’s how I saved my betta from severe dropsy. Do not use aquarium salt, it doesn’t help, and retains water in kidneys, making dropsy even worse. If refuses to eat, dose in water according to instructions. Feed medicated food 2xday. I did Epsom salt baths 2xday for 15 min. 1 tbls of salts per 1 gallon of aquarium water. Epsom salts reduce swelling and take out water from the body (kidneys). I’ve saved my betta this way, I was very motivated to save his life, I had him since he was a tiny baby (fry). I’ve done a lot of research on dropsy treatment. That’s him starting the treatment and 5th day, when he started getting better. I was lucky he was eating medicated food. I was soaking frozen brineshrimp in meds for him. *Not entirely goldfish related but i do have some cute pics id like to share so itll be a 2 for one post* Hey guys my cat is a absolute idiot (last pic is him) and drank really old nasty tank water i had in a bowl i was too lazy to clean would he be ok? All my water is treated with prime. The bowl was a qt tank for when i get new or sick bettas, since my big boy is out and in a luxury tank just for him i didnt need the bowl anymore so it just chilled for a while. He started out as the first picture, the second picture and the video are him today. I thought swim bladder, then constipation, then parasite. (Within the course of a week or longer now); I first gave peas, then I fasted, then I started treatment for parasite, got an ammonia test later that day, had to stop treatment, ended up I had a very very high ammonia spike.. I have been working very hard on the ammonia problem. I still suspect parasites. I understand the ammonia needed to be taken care of first. I just want to know if this is actually caused by ammonia or if it was constipation and maybe it’s moving through the bowels, or if y’all also suspect parasite? The last video is what some of their poop looks like, others have air bubbles in the poop, some are a tiny bit thicker than the one shown but still stringy. Can you please state what you think it is and the best way you think to go about it. I would do another water change and add aquarium salt if you don’t won’t to use meds. It’s worth a try. After you get your parameters normal, then i would treat with General Cure. Soak food before feeding. Hey, I had a look at your other posts and see you found your ammonia problem. It's probably worthwhile to get yourself liquid nitrate and nitrite test kits (or just an API master kit which has all relevant tests you'll need), the strips you have are probably very inaccurate as they indicated you had a somewhat cycled tank (0 nitrite, 10-40 nitrate) but clearly with that ammonia level, the tank is not cycled. I know it's turning into a bit of an expenditure but if you plan on having fish for a while, they'll last you. I've done a couple fish in cycles in the past when I first kept fish and with prime the fish were not affected by ammonia or nitrite. Fish may flash when ammonia levels are high due to discomfort. Are they still flashing after dosing prime? The swollen stomach on a skinny fish could still be an indication of flukes or other parasites. Some new top down pics could help.
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